Heresy World Eaters Javelin Attack Speeder

June 27th, 2015

Evening! Here’s my World Eaters Javelin Attack Speeder. It’s painted the same as the rest of the army, using Forgeworld’s method as described on their website. Only some minor conversion work on this one – first, the addition of some spikes and flesh hooks so the speeder crew can still get their fill of slicing people apart. Second, some magnetised hunter killer missiles mounted on the flanks. They also make the speeder look a little more chunky and heavy duty.

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Magnetised Hunter Killer Missiles.20150113_202837-1

 

Bonnet ornament! Of course it’s a skull.
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The flesh hooks and chains are taken from the Chaos Marauder Horsemen and Skaven Rat Ogres20150113_202830-1

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Heresy World Eaters Legion Despoiler Squad and Apothecary

June 22nd, 2015

As promised, here are some more photos of the World Eaters 121st – tonight it’s the Despoilers. In true World Eater fashion, these chaps are armed with Bolt Pistol and Chain Axe. I haven’t given them Boltguns as I don’t want to tempted to fire guns when I should be running towards the enemy. The sergeant is equipped with a Power Axe, Melta Bombs and Artificer Armour. Obviously, like any big Heresy Squad, they’re accompanied by an Apothecary to keep them going.

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Master of skulls Amarok plus drinking buddies.

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Sergeant Adibaal with members of his squad.

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World Eaters Apothecary Tadaaki! The big bore pistol is standard World Eaters medical kit. I figure there are only two outcomes to World Eaters triage (‘biage’?) – either you’re fine and can carry on fighting or it’s bad enough it’s time for euthanasia. The ‘feel no pain’ rule probably represents something like the following:

“Hey Doc, I’m hurt pretty bad!”

“Hmm, yes, you are. Well, I can grant you the mercy of a quick death. “

” Woah, doc! It’s only a bullet wound! I can still walk and carry an axe! See? Advancing already… ”

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Heresy Era World Eaters 121st Shock Brigade

June 21st, 2015

Evening all! I’ve been requested to post some pictures of my World Eaters on the forum. They’re traitor World Eaters, probably around the time of the combat in Isstvan, but I can see them fighting in the Shadow Crusade as well as they don’t have too much in the way of non-standard equipment or modifications yet. Below is the 1,500 point core of the force, taken back in February and I’ll post up some close ups of the various squads and units throughout the week. I’ll also post some of the stuff I’ve painted since.

This 1,500 point force was taken to an event in London in February, where I won best traitor, having destroyed various Raven Guard, Ultramarines and Imperial Fists. Skulls for the Primarch! Blood for the Warmaster!

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Pre Heresy Deimos Rhino Conversion Guide

January 31st, 2015

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Deimos Rhino templatesDeimos Rhino templatesI’ve been doing more Heresy stuff lately – so much so that I’m pretty much a Warhammer 30,000 player as opposed to Warhammer 40,000 these days. I’ll write down why I think this is one of these days, but for now it’s suffice to say that it’s a huge amount of fun! Obviously there’s a lot of crossover between the two in terms of modelling, but part of the appeal is the slightly different aesthetic. I’ve blogged before about getting that ‘Heresy Look’ without spending a ton of cash before – see my post about my World Eaters infantry here. The vehicles are a bit different though. There are a variety of ways to go about getting the look with vehicles, the main three being:

  • Buy Forgeworld’s lovely Pre-Heresy pattern vehicles. This post is going to be about Rhino based vehicles, so in this case it’s the Deimos pattern Rhino hull. Advantages: It looks great and it’s low effort. Disadvantages: At £35 each, it’s the most expensive option here.
  • Acquire a second hand MK1 Rhino. Advantages: Cost. These things are much cheaper than Forgeworld’s, although they’ve shot up in value since the Heresy game became a big deal. They’re usually around £10, depending on condition. Speaking of which…. Disadvantages: Unless you’ve found an unpainted one, buying a second hand Rhino is a lot like buying a second hand car, so Caveat Emptor! I’ve bought ones that looked pretty easy to clean up only to find that it hand been painted twice using a horrible mix of paints that needed multiple stripping agents to get it all off. On the other hand, finding that gem is a great feeling and there’s a lot to be said for the restoration process, too. The other issue with these old kits is they are noticeably smaller than the modern Rhino hull.
Before the resoration

Buyer beware!

  • Finally, if you’re feeling creative, you can take the modern Rhino kit and try achieving that Heresy Look yourself! Which is where this post comes in. I’ve recently done this myself, and had a few requests for a guide, so here goes:

 

Convert your own Deimos Pattern Space Marine Rhino

For this build, you will need the following:

  •  One plastic Space Marine Rhino – the current model
  • Some Mk 1 Rhino parts: two side hatches and two front panels. Additionally, the original ram bar looks good on the current kit too. If you can’t get hold of these easily, I’ve included dimensions later in this article for you to make your own from plasticard.

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  • Plasticard in 25 thou (≈0.6mm) and 75 (≈2.0mm) thou thickness. You don’t need to match these exact thicknesses, as long they’re roughly this thick it’ll be good enough. Just make sure one sheet is around three times thicker.
  • The usual modelling tools – knives, razor saw, file, glue.

 

The Build:

Step 1 – Build the Rhino as per the instructions, but leaving off side hatches and the folding front armoured visor, as per the photo below. I’ve left the tracks and top hatch unglued as well as I’ll be spraying those separately. I’ve also mounted the old style spiked ram bar.

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Step 2 – cut out your plasticard shapes. The dimensions are shown below. Remember to make the running boards from your thick plasticard! And don’t be tempted to use scissors for the thick plasticard, you’ll bend it and tear the edges. Use a razor saw or a knife. These sizes are what I used, but you may prefer to get a more exact fit by measuring things yourself on you kit. Also, bear in mind that the designs below are NOT to scale!

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Deimos Rhino templates

Step 3 – Glue the door mounts onto the back of your old style Rhino side hatches and the side panels onto the Rhino in between the exhausts.

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Deimos Rhino templates

Step 4 – Glue the side hatches onto the centre of the new side panel.

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Step 5 – Glue the running boards in place. These fit snugly just below the exhausts and will be pretty secure when glued into that nice 90º angle.

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Step 6 – Glue the front plate mounts in place. The side ones should cover up the holes where the folding visor would normally mount, whilst the centre one goes right between the two windows. Carefully cut off the rivets below each window and the centre rivet on the lower front armour, as shown.

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Step 7 – You’re now going to have to trim some of the back of your old style front plates in order to get them to fit properly. This is probably the most difficult part of the build. The one fitted to the right hand side of the Rhino needs 3mm removed from the bottom, and note that the corner has been taken off too. This is in order to fit around the lower front armour that protrudes on the modern kit. The front plate fitted to the left side of the Rhino needs around 6mm removed from the back. Keep dry fitting these and removing more material as necessary! I used a razor saw to carefully cut through this. Also file off the part numbers from the back; we’re going to be gluing this surface and we need a nice flush fit.

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Step 8 – Once you’re happy with the fit, glue them in place!

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Step 9 – That’s all the hard stuff done, now finish by adding detail!

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I hope you enjoyed the write up – please let me know in the comments how it goes if you try it!

 

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Jason Gaylard’s Converted Chaos Heldrake

November 15th, 2014
It’s been a while since I last posted anything here, but here’s a quick one of a model by a friend of mine, Jason Gaylard. Jason converted this Heldrake to look more like an attack aircraft than a mechanical bird, with the flame thrower mounted under the forward fuselage. I think it looks really cool!
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The wrecked remains of an Imperial Fists Dreadnought feature on the base – wrecked versions of my models regularly appear on the bases of other people’s models…

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Jason has appropriately freehand painted flames all over the model.

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He’s also smartly magnetised the wings for easier transportation and storage.

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Forgeworld Reaver Titan Progress

August 7th, 2014

Afternoon all! Now my Imperial Fists have everything they need for their next tournament (finished early for once!), I’ve got some painting time to devote to things that are a bit less urgent. Like Reaver Titans! Since last time, I’ve finished all the ankle piston casings and the legs themselves. The ankle pistons have been done in the standard Army Painter Daemonic Yellow / Soft Tone Quick shade combo, with the armour edging finished in black. The legs have been sprayed black and drybrushed with Tin Bitz and Boltgun Metal. I’ve then sponged on a mix of black, brown and metal paints using a kitchen scourer to simulate damage and weathering (Thanks Ben!). It’s a really quick way of building up some depth. I then sponged on some of Vallejo’s Natural Steel onto the armour edges to show where dirt and damage and been naturally worn away to reveal clean metal underneath, which also gives some highlights to it.

The legs are finished! Well, the endoskeleton, anyway...

The legs are finished! Well, the endoskeleton, anyway…

Lots of big yellow boxes.

Lots of big yellow boxes.

Weathered hip joint.

Weathered hip joint.

Crushing that Rhino. Any suggestions for what colours to paint it?

Crushing that Rhino. Any suggestions for what colours to paint it?

Next up is to mount the ankle piston casings on the legs via a multitude of pistons. Here they are, ready to spray!

So... Many... Pistons...

So… Many… Pistons…

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Imperial Fists Forgeworld Contemptor Dreadnought and Librarian

July 28th, 2014
One's a genetically engineered wizard from the future.The other is the crippled remains of a super soldier incarcerated in a robot body with rotary cannons for arms. Together they fight crime.

One’s a genetically engineered wizard from the future.The other is the crippled remains of a super soldier incarcerated in a robot body with rotary cannons for arms. Together they fight crime.

I finally got the Contemptor Dreadnought painted up! He’s armed with two Kheres-Pattern Assault Cannons (which are obviously magnetised in case I ever need to change the weapon load!). I tried to pose him as though he’s steadying himself about to fire, preparing for the massive recoil. Not sure how successful I’ve been on that front, but I’m still fairly pleased with him. I’m particularly pleased with how the transfers came out. This was actually the test model for the Knight that I painted – where I applied the transfers and sealed them before applying Quickshade and matt varnish. As they came out totally matt, I went and did the Knight and neglected to finish this, until now.

I’ve also finished a Librarian to go with the same army. He’s carrying the Bumper Book of Imperial Fists – that’s how you know he’s a Librarian! Adding these chaps to my existing force (using the 40k Codex: Space Marines) gives me around 2000 points! Just right for attending a certain tournament

I'm a big fan of contrasting colour schemes, hence the black and yellow. The red acts as a third 'spot' colour.

I’m a big fan of contrasting colour schemes, hence the black and yellow. The red acts as a third ‘spot’ colour.

I've added Polyfilla and bits from the old 40k basing kit to the base.

I’ve added Polyfilla and bits from the old 40k basing kit to the base.

The brutal looking Kheres pattern Assault cannons look perfect on the Contemptor chassis.

The brutal looking Kheres pattern Assault cannons look perfect on the Contemptor chassis.

All the markings come from the 40K Space Marine transfer sheet.

All the markings come from the 40K Space Marine transfer sheet.

I've used the Mortis head on this chap - maybe he'll shoot down some aircraft for me.

I’ve used the Mortis head on this chap – maybe he’ll shoot down some aircraft for me.

The Templar icons are present on many Pre-Heresy Imperial Fists and seem to refer to a Honour or order within the Legion. Either way, it allows me to use cool Black Templar bits on my Pre-Heresy Fists!

The Templar icons are present on many Pre-Heresy Imperial Fists and seem to refer to a Honour or order within the Legion. Either way, it allows me to use cool Black Templar bits on my Pre-Heresy Fists!

The only Pre-Heresy piece on this model is the Mk2 backpack, but I think it still fits.

The only Pre-Heresy piece on this model is the Mk2 backpack, but I think it still fits.

Holding Force Sword and the Big Book of Imperial Fists.

Holding Force Sword and the Big Book of Imperial Fists.

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Sons of Medusa Space Marines – now with added Bionics!

July 10th, 2014

I’m still painting Sons of Medusa Space Marines – here are the latest Tactical Marines.

A bit too much weak flesh.

A bit too much weak flesh.

I’m rather pleased with them, but they’re a little bit plain – they needed something a bit more special. Now as Space Marines descended from (okay, kicked out of) the Iron Hands, the Sons of Medusa are fully signed up to the ‘The Flesh is Weak’ credo. This is what gives them the 6+ Feel No Pain rule in the current 40K codex. Ideally they needed something to represent this on the models – obviously a lot of bionics would do the job! There are a few bionic bits on some of the plastic Space Marine sprues, and a couple of bits in Forgeworld’s Space Marine character bits pack, but this wasn’t really as wide a range as I would like. Enter the increasing number of third party groups producing GW compatible parts! I’ve never used any of these firms before, so wasn’t sure where to start. I posted a request for advice to the wide range of modellers at Bristol Vanguard and HATE and they recommended me some firms, including Anvil Industries, Maximini and PuppetsWar. There was lots of good stuff out there, but the Anvil Bionics just edged it for me because of the wide variety of parts I could order, including alternate arm sets, Terminator arm sets, fully poseable legs, bionic faces and some helmet crests just because they seemed cool! The first chaps I’ve built are shown below, and the Anvil parts fit perfectly onto the plastic Space Marines. The poseable arms and legs look fiddly, but are actually very easy to fit. I’ll post more pictures once they’re painted!

Much more in keeping!

Much more in keeping!

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House Hawkshroud Imperial Knight

June 3rd, 2014

Of course I couldn’t resist buying the Imperial Knight when it came out. It’s everything I love about 40k – great looking models, the anachronisms – medieval knights in giant robot battlesuits! – and a cool centrepiece for my army.

Now, I like my armies to look unified, and as anyone that knows me will tell you, I have a lot of Imperial Fists. So House Hawkshroud it was! I decided to the same colour scheme as my pre-Heresy Imperial Fists, using the same techniques described here and here. GW has obviously put a lot of thought into the kit, which makes the job of painting it much easier than it first appears. All the armour plates are separate components from the endoskeleton, with very little crossover between the two sections. This means that I can spray all the armour yellow and the endoskeleton black, saving me lots of time, and providing lots of contrast! The kit also fits together beautifully – every joint is a nice clean fit and the ball and socket joint at the waist is a slight interference fit, meaning you can place them together without gluing, enabling easier transportation.

It ain't cheap, but it's a n awesome kit.

It ain’t cheap, but it’s an awesome kit.

Once I’d assembled and sprayed everything, but before applying Army Painter’s Soft Tone, I put the transfers on. The Knight kit comes with a large transfer sheet, and I have to say, they’re the best transfers I’ve ever used. They fit perfectly around the armour edges and they’re not very glossy. You get a huge variety on the sheet as well. Once these were on, I added a coat of matt varnish from a pot to seal them in, preventing the Soft Tone or Matt Spray varnish from peeling them off. I then highlighted and detailed everything as normal.

In the game, it’s a lot of fun – as you would expect from a giant robot. I think GW has done a pretty good job on the rules as it feels fairly costed in the games of 1750 I’ve been using it in. It is good, but it regularly gets blown to pieces. However, if using an army of Knights, players need to be properly equipped to deal with them, and most armies simply aren’t yet, leading to very one sided games. I’ve only used it in 6th edition so far and it”ll be interesting to see what happens with 7th. The Destroyer weapon Chainsword has been toned down somewhat, but the modified vehicle damage table means that it’ll be a bit tougher. I’ll keep gaming with it and find out!

House Hawkshroud livery.

House Hawkshroud livery.

modified House Hawkshroud Livery - I like the contrasting Eagles so much I used the Terryn ones as well.

modified House Hawkshroud Livery – I like the contrasting Eagles so much I used the Terryn ones as well.

Like all my yellow models, I've painted the glassware purple.

Like all my yellow models, I’ve painted the glassware purple.

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I tried to give some depth to the base, to show the Knight can simply stride over everything.

I tried to give some depth to the base, to show the Knight can simply stride over everything.

Space Marine for scale!

Space Marine for scale!

LOOM!

LOOM!

Lots of lovely mechanical detail. I like to think the reactor core can be slid out during maintenance

Lots of lovely mechanical detail. I like to think the reactor core can be slid out during maintenance

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More Sons of Medusa Sternguard

April 27th, 2014

Afternoon all! This update is a little later than I planned (aren’t they all), but here are some more Sons of Medusa Sternguard to accompany my earlier one here. As I said in the previous post, I’ve been using them in some Kill Team, where despite their high points cost, they’ve turned out to be excellent. This is largely due to the fact of their special issue ammunition. This is pretty good in regular 40k, but in Kill Team the fact that all models operate as individuals operate singly means that you can optimise every single model’s shooting. Models at long range can use Kraken rounds (and they’re very good if you’re just over 12″ too to get two shots!), whilst models at shorter ranges can use Vengeance or Hellfire. Even Dragonfire is useful against certain enemies. In addition, being able to give three models in the force special skills works really well with these ammunition types. In particular ‘Ignore Cover’ and ‘Preferred Enemy’ work very well with the AP3 Vengeance rounds!

Anyway, on with the models! these are all regular Sternguard, so no additional equipment on them. I added a bionic face from the Tactical sprue to one of them – I’m sure part of his face wound being weak and had to be cut out. I’m also painting them with Clan Atropos markings, as per the Forgeworld Badab part 2 book. There’s some cool background and a heavily bionic character to go with them if I feel like expanding them.

Speaking of expanding, I’m assembled a character model to go with these chaps…

 

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Three more Sons of Medusa Sternguard.

 

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Note the cog tattoo on this Marine’s skull.

 

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The black and white Clan Atropos marking.

 

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The Sternguard box includes a lot of nice bits, including almost all the bits to make a Marine in Mk4 armour.

 

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The flesh is weak!

 

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Brother Farad. I’ll probably give science/engineering names to any Marines that need them on their scrollwork.

 

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This chap will probably be a Chapter Master with the Shield Eternal.

 

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The shield will receive some pretentious freehand, I’m sure!

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