Here is part two of my guide to painting pre Heresy World Eaters, Matt style. Part one is here, where I described the components and materials used, and how to get the basic shading and colours completed. You could just assemble the gun to the model and the model to the base at this point and there would be nothing wrong with that. But I wanted to add some detail to the models and generally make them look a bit nicer.
First up is highlighting the blue areas. I use Space Wolf Grey/Fenrisian Grey and simply paint it on all the upwards facing edges. Given that we’re going to glaze over this, the exact colour doesn’t matter too much – I’m sure white would be fine too.
Highlight on blue
Speaking of glazes, I find that the blue looks a bit chalky after the stage, so I use Guilliman Blue glaze to really bring out the blue and blend the stark highlights into the base colour. I paint it straight on, without thinning it down. You’ll see it looks a much stronger blue now!
Blue glaze over blue areas
Next up is highlighting the white areas of armour. I use Skull White as I haven’t; finished my old pot yet, but Ceramite White will do just as well. Like the blue areas, I highlight on all the raised edges that face upwards, but I also highlight any areas where the Quickshade has pooled or not be cleaned off. Highlighting the underneath of these makes them look like dents and knocks in the armour and adds texture and interest.
Highlight the armour with white paint
We’re getting there! Block out the black areas using your favourite black paint. Also paint any areas on the weapon and base that need it.
Block out any black areas
I then paint the eye lenses on the helmets. I use a four stage process. First I paint it with dark red. Then I add a line of dark yellow at the base. A red ink wash blends this together. Once the ink is dry, I add a small spot of white to the top left corner to give the impression of a reflection.
Paint red onto the eye lens
Apply a thin yellow line at the base of the eye lens
Red Wash on Eye
Apply a small white dot to the top left part of the eye lens
Boltgun metal / Leadbelcher is then painted on any areas to be metallic – both on the mode itself and on his weaponry. Once this is dry, a coat of Nuln Oil is painted over the top. Once you’ve let that dry, Ironbreaker is used to highlight the raised edges.
Paint Boltgun / Leadbelcher onto the metal areas
Apply a black ink wash to the metal areas
Highlight the metal areas with Chain mail / Iron Breaker
I normally paint the base at this point. Obviously you should paint this to match whatever gaming set up you have, but neutral, natural colours go well with the stark blue and white of the armour. I drybrush the textured area with a mid-brown such as Khemri and paint the edge of the base with the same colour. A lighter drybrush of a lighter colour like Dheneb Stone finishes it off.
Highlight the black areas using progressively lighter greys. I use Eshin Grey and Administratum Grey.
The finished base. Note the white areas are the plasticard tabs that we’re going to glue his feet to
Now assemble all the components!
You can add some static grass now if you wish, and then varnish. I like Testor’s Dullcote.
Once again you could leave it there… But I want to know what squad and legion this chap is with!
For the Tactical badge, I start with a straight line, parallel to the base of the shoulder pad. I then paint a triangle at each end and thicken the centre line. Then make it solid! The trick here is not to be ultra neat about small areas (as you can ‘fix’ this by adding scratches and damage), but to make sure it’s symmetrical and parallel to any nearby armour lines.
For the Legion badge, I start with a solid black circle. Add a thin white circle just inside the edge of the black one. Add teeth! Start with the larger outer ones, and work inwards, Try and keep it all symmetrical, but don’t work too much about being neat. Add a solid blue circle inside teeth, and splodge on some green continents. I then add some very small scratches to the armour, using a combination of white scratches and black scratches depending on what I’m painting over. Black scratches go on white areas and white scratches on darker areas. Again, the trick here is not to be ultra neat, but to make it all symmetrical.
Hurrah! We now have a finished World Eater.
The finished World Eaters Legionary!
The great thing about this process is it can be adapted for lots of different models. I’ve used it on my Ogryn Berserkers, where immediately before painting the Quickshade on, I painted all the flesh areas with Cadian Flesh. The Quickshade was then applied as normal and wiped off the top surfaces. Once varnished, the blue and white areas were painted as per the Power Armoured troops. On the skin, I applied a new coat of Cadian flesh to the raised areas (leaving the quickshade in the recesses), just to tidy it up. I then used Kislev flesh to highlight the edges of muscles and the facial features. Cadian and Kislev flesh are both a little thin, so you may need to use a couple of coats to get the best effect. I use these steps for any bare heads on the Space Marines as well.
Two Ogryn Berserkers painted using the same techniques here
I also use exactly the same techniques for vehicles, such as this World Eaters Predator.
World Eaters Predator using the same techniques
With a little modification, this technique works well on other colours and models too – I used this technique for my pre-Heresy Imperial Fists too.